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Electric Vehicles

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Well, the article mentions the driver of a Mustang electric vehicle who claimed, when using a level 1 charger, only got 36 miles of range when plugged in over night. (Maybe the Mustang is a notoriously slow car for charging, or has other inefficiencies, but you would think that since it is a 'sports' car, it would be decently built.)

Even if you started with a full ~300 mile charge, if your daily usage is above 36 miles (certainly possible for some people) throughout the week you would be draining more from the battery than you'd be putting in at night.

It's a 'Chicken or egg' scenario. At the moment, Only Teslas have access to a vast and wide range supercharge (level 3 chargers) network. There are others, but they are not as prevalent, or as accessible. It was the smartest thing Tesla did. I look forward to it, and other networks expanding. But for myself, my home level 2 charger works for my needs about 90% of the time.
 
Well, the article mentions the driver of a Mustang electric vehicle who claimed, when using a level 1 charger, only got 36 miles of range when plugged in over night.

It's a 'Chicken or egg' scenario. At the moment, Only Teslas have access to a vast and wide range supercharge (level 3 chargers) network. There are others, but they are not as prevalent, or as accessible. It was the smartest thing Tesla did. I look forward to it, and other networks expanding. But for myself, my home level 2 charger works for my needs about 90% of the time.
Again, the problem for many of the former EV owners who switched back to gas wasn't the lack of super-chargers. The problem seemed to be people who hoped they could recharge their car overnight or while at work (a natural expectation) but found that their available charging options couldn't provide enough power even over a longer time frame.

You can set up all the super-charging stations you want, but many people are still going to want the convenience of charge-at-home. I am not saying that supercharging should be ignored, just that the issue of home or work charging might need a little more attention. (Hence my earlier comment about how perhaps government infrastructure plans should dedicate at least some resources to the issue of home/work charging.)
 
Again, the problem for many of the former EV owners who switched back to gas wasn't the lack of super-chargers. The problem seemed to be people who hoped they could recharge their car overnight or while at work (a natural expectation) but found that their available charging options couldn't provide enough power even over a longer time frame.

You can set up all the super-charging stations you want, but many people are still going to want the convenience of charge-at-home. I am not saying that supercharging should be ignored, just that the issue of home or work charging might need a little more attention. (Hence my earlier comment about how perhaps government infrastructure plans should dedicate at least some resources to the issue of home/work charging.)

We had a home charger installed before we took delivery of the car. This though is only convenient if you own a home. The lack of Level 2 chargers in apartments, or rental homes is going to be an issue for a while.

I know there are some incentives for the installation of chargers to help fill the gap.
 
We had a home charger installed before we took delivery of the car. This though is only convenient if you own a home. The lack of Level 2 chargers in apartments, or rental homes is going to be an issue for a while.

I know there are some incentives for the installation of chargers to help fill the gap.
Out of curiosity, what amperage, wattage, etc. are we talking about here, for a level 2 charger? I can get 240 volts easily enough, but I'd probably have to run a charger from my shop, whose 100 amp service is not under constant stress. The 100 amp at the house is minimal, resulting in things like the lights blinking when the pump or the furnace comes on.
 
We had a home charger installed before we took delivery of the car. This though is only convenient if you own a home. The lack of Level 2 chargers in apartments, or rental homes is going to be an issue for a while.



I know there are some incentives for the installation of chargers to help fill the gap.
I wonder if it might be practical/useful to change building codes to require all new homes to have garages prewired for 220v. (Not necessarily to have a charger preinstalled but set up so one can be put in without any major rewiring.) Or is that even necessary?

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I wonder if it might be practical/useful to change building codes to require all new homes to have garages prewired for 220v. (Not necessarily to have a charger preinstalled but set up so one can be put in without any major rewiring.) Or is that even necessary?

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A 220v outlet i n the garage would be ideal. I can buy an adapter for my car for a 220 outlet. Charge time is a little slower than my dedicatged charger, but not that much slower I understand.
 
Out of curiosity, what amperage, wattage, etc. are we talking about here, for a level 2 charger? I can get 240 volts easily enough, but I'd probably have to run a charger from my shop, whose 100 amp service is not under constant stress. The 100 amp at the house is minimal, resulting in things like the lights blinking when the pump or the furnace comes on.

The Tesla wall charger is 240v, can use up to 60amps, for 48amp output. Adds roughly 35-40 miles an hour when charging.
 
Yeah, that's just a wee bit hefty for a 100 amp service, I think, but might be possible when the shop is not being used. Pretty close to popping the main breaker, though.

I've seen ads for automatic switches to link your car charger to your dryer line. Priority to the dryer, car charging when not using the dryer.
 
I wonder if it might be practical/useful to change building codes to require all new homes to have garages prewired for 220v. (Not necessarily to have a charger preinstalled but set up so one can be put in without any major rewiring.) Or is that even necessary?
A 220v outlet i n the garage would be ideal.
It's already pretty much how things are anyway. Power is delivered to every Americanadian house's or business's breaker box at 240V (often misnamed as 220), and home breaker boxes tend to be in the garages. The only reason most of the building is then wired for 120 (often misnamed as 110) is that the voltage is split in half at the breaker box. The unsplit original can then also be run on separate cables from the breaker box to certain points for more demanding equipment (central AC, clothes drier, water heater, oven/stove).



I've seen ads for automatic switches to link your car charger to your dryer line. Priority to the dryer, car charging when not using the dryer.
Since nobody would try both at the same time anyway (and the consequences of trying would only be a flipped switch even if they did), an auto-switching system isn't even need. All it would take is a socket adapter or extension chord with at least two sockets on it.
 
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I wonder if it might be practical/useful to change building codes to require all new homes to have garages prewired for 220v. (Not necessarily to have a charger preinstalled but set up so one can be put in without any major rewiring.) Or is that even necessary?
It's already pretty much how things are anyway. Power is delivered to every Americanadian house's or business's breaker box at 240V (often misnamed as 220), and home breaker boxes tend to be in the garages. The only reason most of the building is then wired for 120 (often misnamed as 110) is that the voltage is split in half at the breaker box. The unsplit original can then also be run on separate cables from the breaker box to certain points for more demanding equipment (central AC, clothes drier, water heater, oven/stove).
Maybe its just a local thing, but my home (and any home that I've been in) has their breaker box in the basement instead of the garage. So, there is a certain distance between the breaker box and where you would need to put a charging outlet.

And yes, I knew that we had 220/240 volts available to the home (with the higher voltage dedicated to things like clothes dryers, AC, and the remaining outlets knocked down to 110/120.) However, I am just not sure how difficult it would be to adjust a garage outlet (especially one far from the circuit breaker, as in my home) to deliver 220/240 if it wasn't designed for that from the start.
I've seen ads for automatic switches to link your car charger to your dryer line. Priority to the dryer, car charging when not using the dryer.
Since nobody would try both at the same time anyway...
Umm... why not? People would likely want to plug their cars in when they first get home (so they don't forget), and they may want to do laundry in the evenings. (That's when I generally do it myself.)

It would seem to me that it could end up being rather common to run both at the same time.
(and the consequences of trying would only be a flipped switch even if they did)
Personally, I would find that... extremely annoying. I suspect in my case I would end up with a lot of dead car batteries and wet laundry, since I suspect I would probably forget to flip the switch on my car after the laundry was done.
 
I like the idea of the building code requiring a 50A/240V feed to any garage or carport. It would likely be a lot cheaper to do it then than to add it in later, which can cost upwards of $1,000.

The 50A rating is important to get the fastest AC charging. We got very lucky, in that we have 240v feeding a hangar door, very convenient to where we park our PHEV. But it’s only rated to 30A, limiting what it could supply to a Level 2 charger. As I said earlier, the supplied EVSE cable for the Clarity can handle 240V, but only at 16A. I had already rewired the hangar door feed to a “generator” receptacle, so that in power outages I can unplug it and plug it into a 240V generator to get the door open. It was easy to make an adapter to supply that 240v to our EVSE cable for faster charging. It serves as a kind of a “switch” in that I must choose which is plugged in at any given time. Most of the time we just plug into an outdoor 120V for overnight charging and always have a full charge in the morning regardless.

Here’s the setup, charging the Clarity. The unplugged hangar door plug is sitting above the ON/OFF switch.

50645732992_84888a813b_z.jpg


At our second house we have 50A/240V running to an RV pedestal, and I made a similar adapter to use that to charge. It is, however, less convenient being just over 100’ from the house. The bonus is if we ponied up for a true Level 2 EVSE we could better take advantage of the 50A available. We’ve never bothered, since the car transitions so smoothly to a hybrid and there’s not a huge difference in the price of electricity or gas to propel the vehicle.
 
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…240V (often misnamed as 220)…

What is the deal there? And why is a regular outlet sometimes called 110V or 120V?

To add to the confusion, our garage door feed is labeled 230V.

Of course, when measuring any of these you very often get an in between reading, which I guess may be partially dependent on the length and gauge of the wire run from the main panel. I’m still not sure which voltage to refer to in order to be technically correct. Which is the best kind of correct!
 
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What is the deal there? And why is a regular outlet sometimes called 110V or 120V?
From what I understand, the standard voltage in North America used to be 100V, but it was eventually changed to 110v (in order to make light bulbs brighter). It was later increased to 120v.

The reason people still refer to it as 110v is a combination of:

- The historical (i.e. it was once called 110 so it got stuck in some people's memories)

- It somehow "sounds" better

- The actual voltage can vary, but it is often somewhere between 110 and 120. So if the actual voltage is 115v, then 110 is just as 'right' as 120. (Technically it can go higher than 120, but I think being lower is more common.)
 
I've seen ads for automatic switches to link your car charger to your dryer line. Priority to the dryer, car charging when not using the dryer.
A good plan, and there's no real problem putting in another 240 volt outlet, but the dryer line is only 30 amps. Not enough to exploit the full potential of the charger without heating up the wires and risking burning down the house.
 
What is the deal there? And why is a regular outlet sometimes called 110V or 120V?

To add to the confusion, our garage door feed is labeled 230V.

Of course, when measuring any of these you very often get an in between reading, which I guess may be partially dependent on the length and gauge of the wire run from the main panel. I’m still not sure which voltage to refer to in order to be technically correct. Which is the best kind of correct!

There are 2 common ways to run power into a building, split phase usually 240V that is commonly used for houses. Commercial buildings however frequently bring in all 3 phases from the power distribution system because it allows for much higher power draws with lower current requirements. In both cases you can get different voltages depending on how you connect them.

In the split phase case you have 2 line voltages and a neutral (neutral is not ground) coming from a center tapped transformer. Nominally you get 120V between each line and the neutral and 240V between the 2 line voltages. So in normal house you typically see 120V and 240V

In the 3 phase is more complicated and you can generate a more voltages depending on how you connect it, but the important thing to remember is that when you connect 2 poles you get it gives SQRT(3) * the voltage you would get going from 1 pole to neutral.

Because 120V is such a common requirement you will have a line-neutral connection that nominally produces 120V. This means you have a corresponding line-line connection that is 207V or ~210V

So depending on the setting you will commonly see nominal voltages of:
120V
210V
240V

There are also a couple reason why the actual numbers can be a little below these so a 120V outlet usually is in the 110-120 range. IMO these numbers are all similar looking so they become easy to mix up and 220 just sort of comes out even though it's not actually in the list.
 
I would avoid charging an EV with 120 volts. https://www.caranddriver.com/features/a36062942/evs-explained-charging-losses/

Our long-term 2019 Tesla Model 3 Long Range Dual Motor test car is currently averaging 95 percent efficiency from a Level 2 Tesla 240-volt wall connector. Staffers charging at home using a typical 120-volt wall outlet saw efficiency of, at best, 85 percent, and it dropped to as little as 60 percent in very cold weather, when charging the battery requires expending significant energy to keep it warm.

Ranb
 
I rent an apartment in a 350-apartment complex in Arizona. Each apartment is assigned one covered parking space, none of which have electric power available, and none of which is within 30 feet (9 meters) of a building. There are other non-covered, non-assigned spaces.

At an average of 1.5 cars per apartment, which I think is a perfectly reasonable assumption, 525 cars use this parking. I can't imagine how or why the apartment-complex management would install charging spaces for even half the covered parking spaces, let alone for the others.
 
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