• Quick note - the problem with Youtube videos not embedding on the forum appears to have been fixed, thanks to ZiprHead. If you do still see problems let me know.

The general hardware torture thread

Gord_in_Toronto said:
Somewhat obviously this is a problem with the updated driver. If you are having a problem maybe others are too. Try a bit of Googling to see.
As a WAG I would guess this is the problem that programmers will not leave things alone but continually revise programs to "improve" them even when they are working perfectly well. :(
Click to expand...

I did, spent a few hours doing everything I could find. But no one had the suggestion "unplug it and plug it back in"! :D
 
Yalius said:
That makes sense to me, honestly. Most audio drivers these days include a function to determine when something is plugged into an audio jack, and then asks what you plugged in (small speakers, large speakers, headphones, etc). If the driver was buggy enough, until something was plugged in and triggered the detection function, it might assume nothing was plugged in and divert audio to an HDMI or digital output. Then when you unplug and plug in speakers, it triggers the function to know something's plugged in and redirects audio properly.
Click to expand...

I think you are spot on - as it did say the digital output was active but didn't have a handy device I could check that with.

You've won an internet!
 
3D printers. I have two Anycubic Mega Zero v1 printers, customised beyond recognition. 235mm (all printable) Heatbeds, mk8 hotends, auto bed leveling, 600w 24v power supplies, 32bit boards, custom firmware, twin cooling fans, filament sensor, Octoprint & Simplyprint.io, etc.

A few months ago I started getting thermal runaway errors, I've replaced the thermistor & heater cartridge (twice), slowed the print speed, replaced the silicon sock, cleaned out the hole the thermistor goes in with a 2.0mm twist drill, found and replaced a couple of broken wires, the PSU and some lose crimped ferruls, pid tuned the hot end... Each time I fix it it's fine for a print or three then the same error comes back. The temperature graph on Octoprint shows sudden spikes oscillating out of control or the temperature just dropping 15° or so for no apparent reason....

It's p'd me off so much I've pulled out the Ender 3 v2 Neo I was sent to review, duel Z & direct drived it and turned it into a pretty decent printer. Actually it's a pretty good printer, it's just that the Anycubics are fast.
 
a_unique_person said:
I've avoided 3D printers. I know from being an early adopter of other technology it's just going to end in tears.
Click to expand...

I've had my Ender 5 Pro for a few years and am absolutely loving it, doing the design and the printing. On rare occasions I have problems with a print but I've always been able to fix them. I think they've been around long enough that you don't have to worry about "early adopter syndrome". (as long as you get at least a mid-priced decent one.)

(oh, just double-checked and see this is the Computers section. But since I already wrote this following I'm leaving it. Not meant to disrupt the thread.)
Now, talking about other kinds of hardware - I just finished an epic adventure of replacing all the doorknobs in my house. The first few were quite... challenging. Meaning, needing a sledgehammer to get the old ones off. Then for another reason I checked YouTube and found that there is a little hidden release where the part I was having trouble with will pop right off. The remaining ones went swimmingly.
 
Last edited:
I have key that I need a duplicate of. Did not steal it if that's what you're asking.

Like really quickly before she changes locks. I read her texts and the locksmiths are coming at 3 o'clock to change them.

So I need this quick!
 
P.J. Denyer said:
Server or torture? (Yes, there IS a difference).

One of my first jobs was for a rack manufacturer. I won't say which type.
Click to expand...
:D
This addition was the stretchy kind, with rollers....
We have a couple of 42u racks of the other kinds for ICT kit, and T's collection of atomic clocks.
 
alfaniner said:
I've had my Ender 5 Pro for a few years and am absolutely loving it, doing the design and the printing. On rare occasions I have problems with a print but I've always been able to fix them. I think they've been around long enough that you don't have to worry about "early adopter syndrome". (as long as you get at least a mid-priced decent one.)

(oh, just double-checked and see this is the Computers section. But since I already wrote this following I'm leaving it. Not meant to disrupt the thread.)
Now, talking about other kinds of hardware - I just finished an epic adventure of replacing all the doorknobs in my house. The first few were quite... challenging. Meaning, needing a sledgehammer to get the old ones off. Then for another reason I checked YouTube and found that there is a little hidden release where the part I was having trouble with will pop right off. The remaining ones went swimmingly.
Click to expand...

The Anycubics were definately early adopter territory, they didn't even have heated beds and were running off laptop style power bricks as standard! But they were cheap, number one was an Xmas present from my wife & number two was an Amazon returned item for £103. Turning them into something really usable was an interesting and educational hobby in it's own right, 32bit mainboards, 235mm heated beds, decent power supply then 24v conversion, Mk 8 J-head hotends, custom Marlin firmware build, bigger, twin part cooling fans, z-switches repurposed to filament runout sensors, OMG v2 extruders, Octoprint, etc. They're reasonably fast and normally reliable, it's weird, I haven't changed anything for a couple of years so I don't understand why they're currently.giving these problems out of no-where.

As luck would have it was given an Ender 3 v2 Neo to review a few months back so I've dug that out & stuck a dual Z kit, synthetic ruby nozzle and a Sprite direct drive extruder on. Compared to the other two it's nice having off the shelf parts available, but it seems slow in comparison.
 
Is it metric? I understand the dual Z kit, duh. But I'm more of an organic ruby nozzle guy myself.

A Sprite direct drive would probably work well for your garden variety weed whacker. I'm not an expert on these things. But I do know my runout sensors.
 
P.J. Denyer said:
The Anycubics were definately early adopter territory, they didn't even have heated beds and were running off laptop style power bricks as standard! But they were cheap, number one was an Xmas present from my wife & number two was an Amazon returned item for £103. Turning them into something really usable was an interesting and educational hobby in it's own right, 32bit mainboards, 235mm heated beds, decent power supply then 24v conversion, Mk 8 J-head hotends, custom Marlin firmware build, bigger, twin part cooling fans, z-switches repurposed to filament runout sensors, OMG v2 extruders, Octoprint, etc. They're reasonably fast and normally reliable, it's weird, I haven't changed anything for a couple of years so I don't understand why they're currently.giving these problems out of no-where.



As luck would have it was given an Ender 3 v2 Neo to review a few months back so I've dug that out & stuck a dual Z kit, synthetic ruby nozzle and a Sprite direct drive extruder on. Compared to the other two it's nice having off the shelf parts available, but it seems slow in comparison.
Click to expand...
I feel sorry for you, no need to thank me.
 
I only just found (or maybe it was an update) that I could change the print speed. I ran some tests with a print tower of different shapes and didn't see much difference except when I tried different densities. I'm not all that concerned about faster prints because I just set it and let it go.

On the PC hardware side, sometime after I got my first one (and had had to reload the OS on my own a couple times) my speakers stopped working. I ended up calling support and this was one time where a certain question should have been added to the top of the checklist they ran through. Namely, "Do you have headphones plugged in?" (I discovered that after going through their first several steps.)
 
Darat said:
When will you make your first warp drive attempt? :eye-poppi
Click to expand...

Well, I've just finished a half new (new body & bridge on a previously made HSS Partscaster) & I'm making a twin speaker cab using a couple of old car speakers I found in the garage to go with a Hotone Nano amp head, so if I can get that finished & fix the printers and print out a warp core to fit a Rav4... Next Tuesday?
 
alfaniner said:
I only just found (or maybe it was an update) that I could change the print speed. I ran some tests with a print tower of different shapes and didn't see much difference except when I tried different densities. I'm not all that concerned about faster prints because I just set it and let it go.
Click to expand...

The print speeds in standard slicer profiles are VERY conservative for FDM printers, especially those with Bowden Extruders, (direct drive puts more mass on the print head, homebrew direct drive puts much more mass on the print head) how far you can deviate from them is dependent on what you're printing and judgement/luck. I print slower for mechanism parts where I need tight tolerances or decorative parts where I don't want the infill showing through than if I'm printing something like a bracket, housing or panel. I'm planning to switch to a Sonic Pad & klipper next month, that comes with an accelerometer to find your print head & bed's (assuming it's a bed slinger printer) resonant frequencies and calculate the optimum acceleration& jerk settings for that specific printer. Of course for the bed it's going to vary as the print is built.
 
P.J. Denyer said:
The print speeds in standard slicer profiles are VERY conservative for FDM printers, especially those with Bowden Extruders, (direct drive puts more mass on the print head, homebrew direct drive puts much more mass on the print head) how far you can deviate from them is dependent on what you're printing and judgement/luck. I print slower for mechanism parts where I need tight tolerances or decorative parts where I don't want the infill showing through than if I'm printing something like a bracket, housing or panel. I'm planning to switch to a Sonic Pad & klipper next month, that comes with an accelerometer to find your print head & bed's (assuming it's a bed slinger printer) resonant frequencies and calculate the optimum acceleration& jerk settings for that specific printer. Of course for the bed it's going to vary as the print is built.
Click to expand...


Jesus Haploid Christ, I build 3D printers and your last couple of posts are seriously woke :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Back
Top Bottom