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Someone recommend book/website on tubes/transistors?

Crow T. Robot

Student
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Dec 9, 2002
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I have a basic understanding of electricity. By that, I mean I can fix electrical problems on autos, do wiring, etc. in my home, and repair most electrical devices with problems relating to switches, motors, etc. I have zero understanding of tubes and/or transistors, however. I have started to get interested in restoring old jukeboxes, and I will eventually encounter problems that have to do with amplification, etc. Can someone recommend a book or website that will explain these concepts? I'd like explanations of not only what the components do, but also of the reason behind the designs of the circuits that support them ("what's that resistor there trying to accomplish?) Thanks in advance...
 
I'm an electronics instructor at a community college. If there are any specific questions, I might be able to answer them for you.

For a good beginner book, try this one below:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t...=sr_1_2/104-8177306-8370358?v=glance&s=books]

You also might look at some magazines like Nut and Volts, Poptronics. etc.

For tube amplifiers, there is a company called Groove tubes which sells amplifier and rectifier tubes. They sell a really good book there which explains vaccum tubes and has schematic diagrams of tube amplifiers.

They can be found at www.groovetubes.com

Electronics is neat because you can see the practical application of mathmatics and physics in the real world. Math and physics are no longer just abstract academic concepts. Sorry , I got into teacher mode.
Ask me any specific questions you like, I'll try my best to explain them.
 
That's so cool. I customize and restore old Fender, Gibson, Et.Al amps at home . The field is a throwback to yesteryear. A little secret that many people don't know , the original designs of guitar amps were almost perfect replicas of the application data provided by RCA, Telefunken, etc.

The tube world is composed of %75 technology and %25 magic. No two tubes sound the same , no two tubes act the same. There is a thing called tube "matching" where the dominate characteristics of many tubes are measured and like is grouped with like.

I have only two pieces of advice.
! When it comes to tubes we are talking about LETHAL voltages 200-600V, if you don't know what Your doing you could seriously injure or kill yourself. Even if the amp is unplugged , the capacitors in the power supply can retain this voltage. Be careful!

The up side is that %80 or so of problems in tube amps are Tubes, open diodes in the PS ( or a bad rectifier tube) and blown filter capacitors. The groove tube book is great as it has lots of schematics and some theory in the front pages.

The second piece of advise is if your working on transistor stuff troubleshooting can be a royal pain in the ass. When output transistors go ( the most common scenario) they take a lot of components with them. Farm the damn thing out to a repair shop put %15 on top for your effort. I have wasted time and material on stupid old trans amps...it ain't worth the trouble, unless your doing it as a learning exercise. It can be done but requires an intimate knowledge and at least a sketchy ( hopefully detailed ) schematic.
Good Luck
 
I like to restore old radios and ham equipment. Antique Electronic Supply http://www.tubesandmore.com/ carries several special interest books and about any parts you would need. Also go to www.arrl.org and click on the hamfest tab. You can search for hamfests (electronic flea markets) in your area. These are a great source for parts and old tube gear.
As was already mentioned, be careful with tube equipment, an old rule was to keep one hand in your pocket when troubleshooting live units.
 
The second piece of advise is if your working on transistor stuff troubleshooting can be a royal pain in the ass. When output transistors go ( the most common scenario) they take a lot of components with them. Farm the damn thing out to a repair shop put %15 on top for your effort. I have wasted time and material on stupid old trans amps...it ain't worth the trouble, unless your doing it as a learning exercise. It can be done but requires an intimate knowledge and at least a sketchy ( hopefully detailed ) schematic.

Before I started teaching, I worked in the service center for a large music store. Transistor and mosfet amps were my bread and butter. And your right, they are a pain in the @ss. If the transistor opens, you pretty much on easy street.
The worst amp I've ever worked on was the Peavey Mega-BassIII.
If you come across this one, RUN!!!!!!
 
Drat. I've got lots. Not a one is still available! :(
 
uruk said:


Before I started teaching, I worked in the service center for a large music store. Transistor and mosfet amps were my bread and butter. And your right, they are a pain in the @ss. If the transistor opens, you pretty much on easy street.
The worst amp I've ever worked on was the Peavey Mega-BassIII.
If you come across this one, RUN!!!!!!

Is that the one they made in the 1960's with 8 bit speakers and the transistor amp with a billion 2N3055's?
 
Peavey had more designs then Hienz has pickles. Most of their power heads use 3055s or similar. They have some of the weirdest ◊◊◊◊ you will ever see. The main designer (Hartley Peavey? ) puts some of the oddest circuit designs out , I don't know why he does half of the stuff he does.

One clusterfuge is that he likes to separate chassis ground from circuit ground...now this is not medical electronics folks. That causes soooo many problems. The best one tho is in the CS-400 and CS-800 he put in a crowbar circuit AT THE OUTPUT stage! In other words if there is a dc current at the output the SCR shorts the outputs (all of them ) to ground instead of popping the fuse all the transistors must be replaced. Ugh
 
I'm graduating this quarter from Ohio U with a MS in Electrical Engineering, and the biggest problem that engineering students and professors have with transistors is reducing them to a mathematical equations. You will find this problem in a lot of books about transistors (often written by engineers or physicists). The important thing is to see the transistor for its function in a particular circuit. The thing is, they are very simple in function, but because there are many types of transistors and each type acts differently depending on how it is operating that they sometimes appear complicated.
Oh, and by the way, after reading back over this post, I have determined that it really has no point, but will that stop me from submitting it? No.
 
Is that the one they made in the 1960's with 8 bit speakers and the transistor amp with a billion 2N3055's?

I think that was the first mega bass, the mega bass III was from the late 80's or early 90's. but they still had the same basic design. The only way to fix it is to shotgun it and pray you got everything that fried. If you didn't, you would just fry everthing you replaced. Troubleshooting it (even with schematics) was a lost cause.

The CS series are pretty solid

the sweetest amps I've ever worked on were Crown amplifiers.
Not so much for their design (which is pretty good) but for their service support. The best I've ever seen.
 
teddosan,
Grats on Your MS, I remain a humble double E. The prints I have of some of the stuff Peavey put out would give you a chuckle no doubt . Comp symmetry, direct coupled (DC) , some class a preamp w/transistor output..bleh

Uruk , I agree that the CS series is solid and good design ( it is actually a direct theft of another amp design...fraid I don't remember the name). The problem is the placement and design of the crowbar circuit.It SHOULD be designed to short the input side of the power transformer not short the output stage, it would blow a fuse , no prob, the way it was designed stresses the output transistors (even the ones not shorted, so the remedy is replace all the xsistors or have a comeback with the same problem. The other problem is that the design (DC) when overdriven will by design, produce a transient DC at the output (forgot the T but I worked it out ) and will short the outputs. Many times this is just a speaker being hyper extended and producing a back EMF triggering the crowbar circuit.

Just bad design...BTW It's nice to see tube heads =)
 
TillEulenspiegel said:
Peavey had more designs then Hienz has pickles. Most of their power heads use 3055s or similar. They have some of the weirdest ◊◊◊◊ you will ever see. The main designer (Hartley Peavey? ) puts some of the oddest circuit designs out , I don't know why he does half of the stuff he does.

One clusterfuge is that he likes to separate chassis ground from circuit ground...now this is not medical electronics folks. That causes soooo many problems. The best one tho is in the CS-400 and CS-800 he put in a crowbar circuit AT THE OUTPUT stage! In other words if there is a dc current at the output the SCR shorts the outputs (all of them ) to ground instead of popping the fuse all the transistors must be replaced. Ugh

The triac crowbar circuit is a rip-off of the BGW 750 series. It's actually a good idea; if the amp develops a fault that jams the output against one of the supply rails (a shorted output or driver can do this; I've also seen a couple of CS-800s where a resistor in the +&-15V supplies, which are derived from the main rails, opened up, killed one of the LV rails and sent the output up against one of the HV rails) it will try to put 80VDC through the load.

It's a lot less expensive to replace output transistors than it is to recone whatever speakers it was connected to at the time. BTW, in my experience if the original fault was a shorted output device then the fuse will blow immediately, if the original fault was in the front end it's usually only one output device that dies, along with the triac.

Peavey doesn't seem to be terribly strong on originality. If you examine the sches for the pre-facelift CS-800 you'll see that the circuit topology is pretty much a dead lift from the Crown DC-300A, scaled up a bit in output voltage and current capabiity. Even the output stage current-limiting circuitry is lifted from Crown's SPACE circuit.

The one spot in that product line where Peavey came up with something both original and cool is the DDT distortion detector. It works on the same principle as most power amp clipping detectors- monitoring the magnitude of the amp's internal error signal- but Peavey came up with a neat way of arranging the gains of the front end, back end and overall amp gain to permit the clip detector to cancel out the "normal" error, allowing for a more sensitive detection of abnormal conditions.

Incidentally, the internal grounding scheme on the CS-800 actually uses the chassis as the ground reference; the power supply common is connected to chassis at the speaker terminals, and the front end takes its ground from the chassis via the input connectors; front end and output stage commons are joined internally by a low-value (2.7ohm, IIRC) resistor. This arrangement prevents output current returning to the power supply common from producing a potential difference between the output stage ground and the front end ground and is also found in the DC300A and other power amps.

While I'm on a subject I actually know something about (I've only been fixing pro audio gear for twenty years now), I'll add- if you're in the market for an audio power amp and value things like reliability, serviceability and good warranty policies-

CROWN, CROWN, CROWN, CROWN, CROWN.

(Opinion based on several years of working in a shop that did warranty repairs on pretty much all of the major brands of pro audio equipment)

And, to get to the original subject of the thread, a browse through the Mix Bookshelf catalog shows several books that are likely to be helpful to someone wanting to learn about troubleshooting audio amps. Check the "amps" and "electronics" categories in particular.
 
Yup BGW750 that was it. I don't recall that they stole the crowbar but the rest of the amp was a copy.
The floating ground scheme I was referring to some of their other power heads and combos.
I think a current sensing circuit w/ a relay disconnect ( which is also a soft start) is far better then the SCR circuit
Crown! Damn right
 
TillEulenspiegel said:
Yup BGW750 that was it. I don't recall that they stole the crowbar but the rest of the amp was a copy.
The floating ground scheme I was referring to some of their other power heads and combos.
I think a current sensing circuit w/ a relay disconnect ( which is also a soft start) is far better then the SCR circuit
Crown! Damn right

I know the crowbar circuit was lifted from BGW. If it wasn't the 750 series, it mighta been the GTA- they all get kind of hazy after a while.

Some manufacturers (like Crest) use a relay to disconnect the load if the output DC offset exceeds a few volts. The trouble with this approach is that in the event of a real failure, like a shorted output device, even though they glue magnets to the relay case to help extinguish the arc, the relay contacts invariably end up trashed. And they solder the damned relays into the power supply board, which, with the way that they cram things into the chassis, means an hour and a half wrestling match involving taking half of the amp apart to replace them.

I hate Crest. Most technician-hostile products I've ever worked on (tied with the SSL 4000 series console power supply).

In the Macro-tech series, Crown uses a relay to shut off the AC to the HV power transformer in the event of a DC fault. This works, doesn't trash the relay, and since these amps use separate transformers for each channel, allows you to limp through the gig on the unblown channel.
 
I hate Crest. Most technician-hostile products I've ever worked on (tied with the SSL 4000 series console power supply).

the most technician-hostile product I've ever worked on was the Korg M-1 keyboard. To service anything on the keyboard required you to completely dissassemble the unit. I am not kidding.

QSC is another amplifier that was pretty easy to work on. good service support. not anywhere near as good as Crown but better than the others. the QSC powerlite series are pretty good, just so long as you don't have to troubleshoot the swithching power supply.
 
uruk said:


the most technician-hostile product I've ever worked on was the Korg M-1 keyboard. To service anything on the keyboard required you to completely dissassemble the unit. I am not kidding.

QSC is another amplifier that was pretty easy to work on. good service support. not anywhere near as good as Crown but better than the others. the QSC powerlite series are pretty good, just so long as you don't have to troubleshoot the swithching power supply.

The most commonly-seen QSC products back when I was working at Philly's only pro audio service company were the MX series amps. I had two main zarks about these:

All except the smallest amp in the product line were class H designs- that is, they used multiple supply rail voltages which were switched to the output stage according to the necessary instantaneous output voltage, thus reducing output stage dissipation. The output devices were bipolar, but the rail switching was done with MOSFETs. The MOSFETS were controlled by these little daughterboards full of surface-mount components.

There was no way to test these little daughterboards, short of replacing the MOSFETs and seeing if they blew up again. If you had an amp with a MOSFET failure (the most common failure) the only reliable way to repair it was to shotgun the rail-switching circuitry, replacing the MOSFETs, the little control boards and the fast recovery rectifiers that isolated the lower voltage rails.

Those little control boards cost us 80 bucks apiece wholesale, and there were four of them in the bigger amps. Consequently the consumer kinda got hosed on out-of-warranty repairs.

The PL series uses the same rail-switching arrangement with the same Satanic little daughterboards.

The other pain in the butt about them was that they're built like a sandwich, with the PC board for one channel mounted on an aluminum plate that mounted to the chassis, with the PC board for the other channel on the underside of the plate. That made the bottom channel inaccessible- which, of course, would always be the one that blew, so you got to start by unplugging everything, pulling the whole assembly out, flipping it over and putting it back in. And don't even get me started on what a megilla it was to remove and reinstall the PC boards...

Oh well. As long as analog audio lasts long enough to see me out of this world I guess I can't complain too much. ;)
 
Walk with me my Breathrin..................Fookin PV mixer heads.
Thou shalt remove all knobs.............Amen.
Thou shalt remove 30 nuts and lock washers..........Amen
Thou shal removest the ofending SOLDERED Mc1442 OP amp........Amen
Thou shall spray all pots and jacks with the anointed Oil...Amen
Thou shal accepthith that the poor soul whom bought such a technological blashphemy shall Payith huge summs and therefor allow Thee to procreate. Amen
Praise to PV the allmighty god of the crooked path.................Amen
 

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