Charlie in Dayton, thanks
so much for your contribution - this is fantastic, and thanks for taking an interest
The best telescope is one that gets used. We're talking portability, ease of setup, weight...
Yes, these are all things that I can see being issues - and another one actually is ease of storage: my girlfriend will moan if it takes up half the living room, and our new house, whilst very nice, isn't exactly a palace...
That said, as I mentioned, the house backs onto fields, so I don't picture, hopefully, having to lug it too far. But, the fields will probably be built on before long, and so I'd better anticipate having to drive out further.
Let's get some details here -- what do you have for a scope NOW? This will indicate a start point for upgrades. Details = type (SCT, Newtonian, Dobsonian, refractor, reflector), focal length and ratio, what size eyepiece barrels (1.25" or .965"), AZ/EL, equatorial tracking mount...
Right, okay - what I've got now is what I believe to be a refractor - here's the little fellow:
As you can see, the mount is a wobbly, slightly rusty tripod with zero bells and whistles. Apart from a feeling that I'd like something with a little more under the bonnet, so to speak, this was a second hand scope to begin with, and wasn't in a brilliant state of repair even when I got it probably 15 years ago. The main problem is definitely the mount: however much I tighten the nuts and bolts, the scope sinks after aiming, which means ages of just trying to aim. The spotter scope thing on the side seems to bear little relation to what the telescope sees, and a gentle breeze, or brushing the eyepiece as you look into it, means ages of readjustment.
Re: actual specs, this is what's on the side (I got no documentation with the scope, so this is all I know):
So, focal length 700mm? Certainly no tracking mount (unless you count the 'automatic' sinking of the scope after setting

); AZ/EL, I get that this is azimuth/elevation, but if it refers to an automated mount thing on a scope, then again, none of those.
Eyepiece barrel (the thing you look in, right?): it came with only one that 'worked' (the other seemed to be smeared with something), and the number on that is either H 12.5mm
or HI 2.5mm, depending on which way you read it - neither of these seem to translate in inches to the sizes you said though, so have I got something wrong?
Let's get the basics down...brands can be discussed later.
Seems sensible. I suppose in mentioning Meade I had something about build quality in mind, but yes, coming at it from all angles at once is probably adding to my confusion.
But I'd seriously check out some of Jolly Olde's astronomy magazines for ads (even as a Yank, I subscribe to Astronomy Now...that's if I'm reading a few things right, and you're a subject of Her Majesty...
I am indeed, though not such a loyal subject as some
I have bought
Astronomy Now several times; I'll pop out later and grab the most recent for the ads. Before now, I've bought it for the pictures and some of the articles, and looked at the ads more as an 'if only' sort of fantasy than in a serious way - and not knowing what all the numbers and terms mean, meant my discrimination between scopes went mostly on how swish they looked, and how cool the gadgets seemed
We're talking aperture here...that does not give you greater magnification, but will gather more light, which lends itself to greater detail.
Right! A mystery solved for me straight off!
A 6" Newtonian reflector is a good inexpensive start. A 5" or so Schmidt-Cassegrain or Maksutov-Cassegrain is a good start, but noticeably more pricey. A 4" or greater refractor price tag will give you the screamin' meemies...
So... right, forgive my dumb questions, but what would be the trade-off, if any, between a 6" Newtonian reflector and a 5" S-C or M-C? Is it that the aperture of the latter is smaller, but something else about it is better?
In any reflector, main mirror accuracy of 1/6 wavelength PV (or less) is nice (1/4 will do in a lower priced pinch). This refers to the smoothness and accuracy to which the main mirror is ground/polished -- 1/6 wavelength PV means any inaccuracies in the curve of the mirror are less than 1/6 of a wavelength of light at common visual wavelengths/colors. The more accurate the mirror, the more expensive (but not outrageously so).
Fantastic advice, thanks. Again, I've seen these terms floated around, but had no clue what they'd mean, or how they'd affect viewing.
The more robust the tripod the better. Figure out the weight of the scope, and go for something with 50% more weight bearing capability. For vibration dampening, wood beats metal any time. A surplus surveyor's wooden tripod with the appropriate mounting on it is a good way to go. There are custom telescope tripod makers out there, and there are numerous websites out there on how to build your own. In a pinch, if you're going commercial, weight capability is #1.
Right. So is it sensible do you think to buy the stand separately to the scope? Many seem to come already with a stand.
Automatically adds £100 to £150 to your price. Consider a good star manual and take some time to learn the sky.
I see. That's a lot of money. I suppose it's less the aiming so much as the tracking I'd rather like that gadget for, do they do that as well? Or is there another thing that does that? Or am I just being lazy and extravagant?
Go for specifications first...then start working price.
Righto. So work out what I
want, then work out what I can
afford, got it.
For tracking photos, an equatorial mount with the motors are almost mandatory. NOTE -- most smaller computerized GO-TO scopes' motors are not hefty enough to take the added weight of a camera -- use caution here.
There are simple photo setups where you can manually guide for photos, or take pictures of things that are bright enough not to need long time exposure/tracking. If your camera has a 1/4-20 thread on the bottom (that's a standard photo tripod thread), this little beastie allows you to point your camera into the eyepiece without any other equipment. I have one of these, and have seen them used. It's a good inexpensive start, especially for lunar photography.
Sounds like a good place to start. I don't have decent photographic equipment at all yet anyway, I'm sort of thinking in the future, maybe when my bank account's recovered from the scope itself.
PHYSICALLY, basic refractors are LONG, because the light path is straight-line. Newtonian style reflectors are shorter, because the light path is folded in half. SC's/MC's are shorter still because the light path is folded multiple times.
Right; so are the main considerations more practical then - room and heftiness? Or do different things happen when the light is 'folded'?
Let's talk a few simple things.
Don't be swayed by those claims or photos on the box at the local UltraStupendoMegaMart. 575X out of a 4" reflector, or pictures that rival Hubble, just ain't gonna happen...
USABLE magnification basic rule of thumb -- 2x per mm/25x per inch of aperture. Anything higher than that will either give too faint an image, or a washed-out undetailed image. Some people even go lower -- 1.5x per mm/35x per inch.
So... say a 6" Newtonian reflector would give a usable magnification of 150X ish? Whereas the 5" S-C or M-C might give 125X? Is there any way to know what these magnifications look like? I don't really have a frame of reference.
Focal ratios -- the scope's focal length (distance it takes the scope to focus light down to a point) divided by the aperture gives focal ratio.
f7 or thereabouts appears to be an informal dividing line -- <f7 are 'fast' scopes, with wider fields of view (better for viewing multiple objects in a field -- the Trapezium in Orion, for example). f7> are 'slower' scopes, with narrower fields of view for DSO's (Deep Sky Objects) -- these are the ones for viewing the Rings of Saturn, Jupiter's red spots or moons, specific stars/galaxies.
So say you get a scope which =f7, would that be a good all-rounder, or rubbish at both?
Let's you'n'me hammer out a few things more concerning uses/needs/specs before we concern ourselves with brand names.
Given what you just said about focal ratio, I'm not sure about uses. It would be nice to be able to view both multiple objects in a field, and DSOs and planets; but if pushed, my tantalising glimpses of Jupiter wouold probably put me firmly in the "I wanna see planets" camp.
I'm the informal binocular astronomy dude for the local astronomy club.
God I love this board, post a 'help me I'm a beginner' question and the first response is from an astronomy club dude
I'd love to join a club - except I'm rubbish at committing - but if I manage to scrape together enough to get new equipment, I'll definitely see if there are local groups.
I have a couple of scopes at home, both purchased really before I knew what I was getting into. One was a good starter, but too small for what I wanted to do (3" Tasco reflector, .965" eyepieces, f7). The other was bought on an impulse because it was on sale, which is absolutely the wrong reason to buy ANYTHING (Orion 130mm SpaceProbe EQ reflector, 1.25" eyepieces, f6.9).
Both scopes would do very well for someone who required scopes of these specifications, but they were/are wrong for me.
So... what was wrong for you, if you don't mind my asking? As a case study, what was it about these specs which didn't meet your needs?
Some people come out with all sorts of optical foofoorarw, and spend half the night getting set up and adjusted and collimated and polar aligned...others have a list as long as your arm of what they want to look at that night.
I think I'm in the latter group
Thanks again Charlie for that amazing post, very much appreciated
